Dizzy Recap: Death & Co.’s Fall/Winter Menu Tasting

"Pelée's Blood" (Rhum JM Blanc, Don's Mix #2, homemade grenadine, lime juice, dash absinthe)

“Taut nerves relax; taut muscles relax; tired eyes brighten; tongues loosen; friendships deepen; the whole world becomes a better place in which to live.”–David A. Embury

Death & Co., which recently rejoiced over its extended hours (now open until 2 a.m. on weekends), rolled out a new cocktail and food menu earlier this week, and I had the pleasure of attending last night’s press tasting. The 2 1/2-year-old cocktail den of East 6th Street had a challenging beginning with several legal battles with the SLA/Community Board 3, but this new, inspired menu signals perseverance for the bar and seems to put the past to bed.

Co-owner David Kaplan is especially proud of the new food menu by recently-hired Chef Luis Gonzalez, who trained under renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Mercer Kitchen. “For once, I feel like we have a food menu that is on par with the quality of the cocktails,” said Kaplan.

And quality cocktails they are–we started with “Pelée’s Blood” (Rhum JM Blanc, Don’s Mix #2, homemade grenadine, lime juice, dash absinthe), D&C bartender Thomas Waugh’s take on a tiki cocktail. It was a delicious punch-type drink with balanced sweetness, and it made for a refreshing start. The drink was paired with a small plate of tuna tartare with crushed avocado and homemade kettle chips as well as a melt-in-your-mouth pan-seared foie gras with corn pancake and quince puree. Clearly, Gonzalez’s dishes elevate bar snacking  to a whole new level.

Next, I had the “Daisy Buchanan” (Chamomile-infused Old Overholt Rye, Dolin Dry Vermouth, Aperol, and Yellow Chartreuse), created by D&C bartender Joaquin Simo. Solid, strong cocktail, especially if you like a dry finish. This was a perfect palate-cleanser for the pulled-pork slider and mini-scoop of truffle mac ‘n’ cheese, which were both highly-satisfying indulgent treats. Then, onto the “Ingenue” (Pierre Ferrand Ambre Cognac, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, Don’s Spices), one of D&C bartender Brian Miller’s cocktails. The clove-heavy flavors of Don’s Spices (a mix of vanilla syrup and allspice dram), made for a rich, autumnal drink that would be perfect for sipping next to a fireplace.  This was paired with a mushroom tart with walnut and onion pesto and the crispy pork belly, served with sauteed kale, braised cranberry beans, and pomegranate seeds.

Last but not least was D&C bartender Alex Day’s “Little Engine” (Famous Grouse whisky, tawny port, apple butter, lemon juice, maple syrup). Served over a mountain of crushed ice with a fresh apple garnish, this drink for me was the most “adult” apple cocktail I’ve ever tried. The port adds depth to the usual apple pie flavors, and the apple butter infusion coats the tongue without being unctuous. Naturally, this was served with apple cobbler.

Special thanks to David for the invite, and to bartenders Jason Littrell and Brian Miller for being so on-point, given all of those new recipes to keep track of. I can’t wait to return and try more!

“Pelée’s Blood” (Rhum JM Blanc, Don’s Mix #2, homemade grenadine, lime juice, dash absinthe)

Tuna tartare with homemade chips and pan-seared foie gras with corn cake.

Pulled-pork slider, truffle mac, and the Daisy Buchanan.

The new D&C “Bites” menu

New gin cocktails at D&C

“Little Engine” (Famous Grouse whisky, tawny port, apple butter, maple syrup, lemon juice)

Elsewhere in the Liquiverse…

The Architectural Punch Bowl, big enough to row in, comes to London next month.

“I think we’ve fetishized the cocktail.”–Audrey Saunders to LA Weekly

• Those Londoners know what’s up–next month, look for a giant punch bowl big enough to paddle a boat in at 33 Portland Place. The winning punch recipe will soon be announced by artists Bompas & Parr, collaborating with Courvoisier.
• More good news for LA’s cocktail scene–which is yet to be “fetishized,” according to Audrey Saunders, who will help open The Tar Pit there on Dec. 7.
• Death & Co. rolled out a new menu last night. Details to come…
• Feeling a November chill? Warm up by checking out AMountainofCrushedIce’s best-of tiki drinks from the days of Don the Beachcomber.
• Traveling bartenders will soon be able to lug their tools in a luxury leather bar bag designed by Jim Meehan of PDT for leather crafters Moore & Giles. Good thing bartenders make bank because these puppies are going for $740 a pop.
• Apple brandy is the apple of the bartender’s eye these days, according to the SF Chronicle. Rickhouse’s “Scottish Breakfast” with Germain-Robin Apple Brandy and Glenrothes Select Reserve sounds like a winner!

Exclusive! Rye House to Open Tuesday

The "Appleseed Cobbler" at Ryehouse. Photo by Jim Kearns.

Drinking options around Union Square are about to significantly improve as all-American gastropub Rye House soft-opens this weekend before fully opening on Tuesday. Located at 11 W. 17th St., between 5th and 6th Aves., just down the street from cocktail lounge Raines Law Room, Rye House emphasizes American food and spirits.

 I attended a super-soft opening last night and sampled an Appleseed Cobbler cocktail (Maker’s Mark bourbon, Applejack, cinnamon bark syrup, apples) and Chef Greg Johnson’s phenomenal buffalo sweetbreads paired with a Nectar IPA. Prepared in the style of buffalo wings and served with blue cheese and celery, the spicy, crunchy breading complemented the tender, creamy offal perfectly and made for a playful bar plate.

Owners Mike Janetta and Rob Lombardi (Sala Bowery and Sala 19) and Julio Herencia teamed up with Lynnette Marrerro (Zacapa Rum, Eletteria, Freemans, drinksat6) and Jim Kearns (Freemans, Mayahuel, Pegu Club) to develop the cocktail program. Lynette and Jim previously worked together to create the cocktail menu at now-closed Woodson & Ford. There’s also a selection of domestic craft beers on tap and domestic wines. The long white granite bar with antique shelves is packed with a selection brown spirits, especially micro-distilled/artisanal whiskies and bourbons.

“We wanted to use small-batch American spirits,” said Lynnette. “Every drink had to have an ounce or more of an American spirit. The drinks are American twists on classics. Some, like the Creole Daiquiri, show the best of American fusion. We wanted to have a seasonal julep since it is the quintessential American whisky drink.”

Plates by Chef Greg and Ann McKinney, chef de cuisine, include drunken mussels with wheat beer and tarragon, crayfish po’ boys, beef wellington sandwiches with filet mignon and foie gras on brioche, baby chicken with buttermilk spoonbread, and stout BBQ ribs. Rye House has a front bar area with plenty of seats at the bar as well as two long, farmhouse-style communal tables, and additional communal seating and booths in the back. The decor is a mix of rustic Americana with clean, modern lines, and dim, romantic lighting. I look forward to returning again soon!

The hotly-anticipated cocktail menu here:

The Mansfield: Bluecoat gin or Tito’s vodka, Dolin blanc, yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit bitters ($12)
17^th St. Sazerac: Rittenhouse rye, Hine cognac, demerara, Peychaud & Angostura bitters, Marteau absinthe ($12)
Fleur de Lis: Aviation gin, St-Germain, lemon, orange bitters, champagne ($12)
Orange Blossom Special: Overholt Rye, lemon, simple, orange flower water, egg white, soda ($12)
Golden Delicious: Applejack 7½ year, lemon, honey syrup ($12)
Clara Bow: Bulleit Bourbon, St.-Germain, house made grenadine, lemon, mint ($12)
Rye House Punch: Chai-infused Rittenhouse Rye, Batavia Arrack, lemon, grapefruit, angostura bitters, soda ($12)
American  Highball: Buffalo Trace, Averna, soda, orange slice ($12)
Appleseed Cobbler: Maker’s Mark bourbon, Applejack, cinnamon bark syrup, apples ($12)
Rye House Julep: Peach-infused Death’s Door white whiskey, Applejack, mint ($13)
Creole Daiquiri: Old New Orleans 3 year rum, chorizo-infused Sombre Mezcal, lime, pomegranate molasses, cane syrup ($13)

Rye House, 11 W. 17th St. (212) 255-7260. The bar is open 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily, dinner is served until 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and until 12 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Lunch service will begin on Nov. 19 and brunch will start on Nov. 28.

Jim Kearns and Jane Elkins at Rye House opening night.

The antique bar at Rye House.

Additional seating in the back room.

Brown spirits rule at Rye House.

Buffalo sweetbreads, a small plate at Rye House.

Elsewhere in the Liquiverse…

Bar Pleiades at The Surrey Hotel. Photo courtesy of Oyster.com

• Have out-of-town guests arriving in NYC for the holidays? Be sure to steer them to these swanky new New York hotel bars.
• LeNell Smothers, who writes for Slashfood as “LeNellItAll,” shares her easy “Spa Mix” recipe to make any drink as cool as a cucumber.
• Harlem speakeasy 67 Orange Street is hosting a Partida cocktail tasting from 7:30 to 9pm on Tuesday, Nov. 17. 2082 Frederick Douglas Blvd., 212-662-2030
• Pernod Absinthe is holding an art contest, “Creator Of,” asking for submissions of paintings, illustrations, photography, video, and digital/animation featuring the date “1805,” the year Pernod was born. The first-place winner will receive $1,805; second and third prizes are $500 and $250, respectively. Deadline is Jan. 31.

Dizzy Recap: WhiskyFest New York

David Blackmore and Arnaud Dalibot of Glenmorangie

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much of good whiskey is barely enough.” –Mark Twain

Toasted vanilla, sweet sherry, cedar. Prunes, dark chocolate, charred fruits. Cracked pepper, moss, smoky peat. What is there not to love about the spicy, tongue-tingling world of whisk(e)y? Clearly, not a thing, as the 12th Annual WhiskyFest New York at the Marriott Marquis in Times Square was wall-to-wall packed with whisky drinkers Tuesday night. With more than 200 exhibitors pouring drams of single malts, blended whiskies, bourbon, rum, beer, and other spirits, this was one dizzy affair.

Upon entering the boisterous scene, I made a beeline for the USBGNY booth to sip on some scotch cocktails before diving into straight pours. As expected, the drinks were complex and delish–I sampled Meaghan Dorman’s “Bagpipe Dream” (Compass Box Asyla scotch, fresh lemon juice, ginger maple syrup), Jolene Skrzysowski’s “Rustic Plums” (Woodford’s Reserve bourbon, Domaine de Canton, plum wine, pear nectar), and Hal Wolin’s “2009 Scotch Odyssey” (Glenmorangie 10 Year scotch, Laphroaig scotch, mole bitters, demerara syrup). I also had a fantastic Old Fashioned by USBGNY President Jonatha Pogash, but forgot to write down the ingredients.

John Glaser, creator of Compass Box Whisky, said the recent evolution of fine scotch as an ingredient in cocktails has made for a positive addition at WhiskyFest. “You would never have seen this five years ago,” he said.

So which whiskies did I try? Let’s see, from what I can recall there was Michael Collins Irish Whiskey Single Malt, Compass Box Spice Tree, Glenmorangie Nectar D’Or, Ardberg 10 Year, The Balvenie Portwood 21 Year, Glenrothes 1991 (they were out of 1985),  Tullamore Dew 12 Year, Blanton’s Single Barrel bourbon, Highland Park 18 Year, Yamazaki 18 Year, and a most delicious Signatory Glen Grant 1976 from the Bar & Books booth. I also had Zacapa Rum, BrewDog Paradox Smokehead stout aged in Scotch casks, and more scotch cocktails mixed by kilted bartenders from St. Andrews Restaurant & Bar. There were so many more drams I wanted to try, if time and liver capacity were of no concern.

The crowd was, from my approximation, 90 percent male, 40 percent Orthodox Jewish (maybe more), and 70 percent over the age of 40, not that it matters or anyone’s counting. Thanks to Malt Advocate for organizing the event and to Kate Laufer for the invite. Slainte!

Lynnette Marrero really wants some Ardbeg 10 Year!

Jason Littrell & Lincoln Chinnery

Michael McClosky pours Michael Collins

Gardner Dunn & Ben Scorah

Whisky madness!

Amy Preske of Bufffalo Trace pours Blanton’s Single Barrel

Highland Park 18

Davinia Small pours Ardberg 10 year

John Glaser pours Compass Box Spice Tree

Hal Wolin at the USBGNY booth

David Blackmore and Arnaud Dalibot of Glenmorangie

Signatory Glen Grant 1976

Me, Robin Robinson, Carmen Carroll & Meaghan Dorman

Brew Dog brand rep & Carmen Carroll

Tell me more ’bout Tullamore Dew

Sip & Tell: Gardner Dunn of Suntory Whisky

Gardner Dunn of Suntory Whisky loves his job.

“For relaxing times, make it Suntory time.”–Bill Murray’s character, “Bob Harris,” advertising Suntory in Lost in Translation

[Sip & Tell features barstool interviews with spirits industry professionals.]

You probably recognize the above quote from the 2003 film Lost in Translation starring Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson. Around that time, Suntory was still best known for its melon liqueur, Midori, but over the past few years, its single malt whisky, Yamazaki, has infiltrated U.S. shores and quietly stolen the hearts of many a scotch drinker. Yamazaki 12 year and 18 year, both prize-winning in blind tastings, are made at Japan’s oldest distillery, founded by Scotland-educated Shinjiro Torii in 1923. Created with the level of craftsmanship the Japanese are known for, the whisky is aged in Japanese, American, and Spanish oak casks, lending a full-bodied flavor and silky smooth finish.

Over the past year, many of NYC’s best-known cocktail bars have featured drinks made with Yamazaki, such as the “Gold Rush” at Goldbar and the “Murray Sour” at Minetta Tavern. This is mainly due to the work of Gardner Dunn, North American Brand Ambassador for Suntory Whisky.

Gardner, a mixologist who is as recognized for his creative cocktails as his off-kilter hairstyle, travels around the country for several days (if not weeks) every month. He says he’s seeing a younger crowd show interest in the brand. “Scotch used to be a status symbol, something your dad drank,” he said. “Now I’m seeing younger people wanting to try new stuff. They’re interested in hearing about the distillation and the history.”

Gardner recently got an advanced course on all things Yamazaki when he traveled to the Suntory distillery on the outskirts of Kyoto, a location chosen for its water source. The Vale of Yamazaki, hailed by famous master of the tea ceremony, Senno Rikyu, is legendary for its pure water. Inspired by the art of Japanese bartening, which includes techniques such as ice ball carving and the hard shake, Gardner set out to gather Japanese bartending tools to show to the many skilled bartenders he’s met stateside. He’s put together a “Godzilla Kit,” with tools including crystal mixing glasses with a lip, bar spoons with forks on the opposite end, and Japanese jiggers, which have a thinner and deeper design and more balanced weight than standard jiggers.

The Godzilla Kits are just one bonus in what is turning out to be an exciting year for Suntory. Later this month, the hotly-anticipated Hibiki 12-year blended whisky (aged in plum liqueur casks and filtered through bamboo charcoal) hits shelves in NYC and California, its first debut stateside.  Also, just in time for the holidays, a limited edition of 300 bottles of 1984 Yamazaki will be released, for $550-$650 a pop.

Gardner says he finds himself crafting cocktails less and less and carving ice balls more and more as he focuses on educating people everywhere about the history and philosophy behind Suntory. “Cocktails are not the goal [for Yamazaki], but it does mix very well,” he said. “It doesn’t have a lot of heat, but it has honey overtones that pair well with other spirits.”

Kanpai!

Suntory's "Godzilla Kit." Photo by Leo Borovskiy of Lush Life Productions.

Gardner pours Yamazaki at a recent "Malt Madness" tasting at Union Square Wines & Spirits

Yamazaki 12, Hibiki 12, and Yamazaki 18.

Dizzy Recap: Amarula Cream at Esquire SoHo Penthouse

Touring the PokerStars.Net room at SoHo Mews.

Bachelors and cream liqueur might not seem a likely match, but earlier this week, Amarula Cream, Esquire Magazine, and mixologist Alex Ott proved otherwise. Amarula Cream, a South African liqueur made with the fruit of the Marula tree, held a cocktail bash to celebrate its sponsorship of the recently unveiled 2009 Esquire “Ultimate Bachelor Pad” at the SoHo Mews. ”Pad” is truly an understatement–this sprawling, block-sized penthouse styled by a dozen top designers is filled with impossibly cool, impossibly pricey decor. I could go on and on about the chic interior (digitally-enhanced billiards table, a $40,000 leather ”chopper chair” in the Diesel-sponsored music studio, a luxurious Hugo Boss-sponsored master bedroom with views of the Empire State Building), but I’ll leave that to the design bloggers.

To kick off the evening, Alex demonstrated how he created fresh-ingredient cocktails that would bring out Amarula’s refreshing fruit flavors. The marula fruit has a guava-like tropical essence, giving Amarula an exotic aftertaste. Alex’s most impressive drink was a revelation of masculine flavors–the “Tobacco Vanilla” involved tobacco-infused liquified honey, sandalwood syrup (sandalwood powder-infused simple syrup), Amarula, light rum, and lime juice.

Alex’s instructions for making the tobacco-infused liquified honey: dissolve two parts of Manuka honey or acacia honey in one part of hot water, stir until dissolved, and let cool. Store honey in a refrigerator. Burn organic tobacco and guide it through a punctured straw through the honey solution for about one minute.

Other cocktails served included the “Amarula & Eve” (Amarula, citrus vodka, lychee juice, and ruby red grapefruit juice), “Green Tea Wonder” (Amarula, mango nectar, gunpowder green tea, and lemon juice), and the “Pink Elephant” (Amarula, chocolate liqueur, merlot, raspberry puree, heavy cream, sugar, and a garnish of hickory smoke). Alex showed us how to make a quick whipped cream by simply shaking heavy cream and sugar in a cocktail shaker. To make the hickory smoke garnish, Alex lit a piece of wood under an inverted funnel, while his assistant siphoned the smoke into a plastic squueze bottle, thus capturing the smoke. When squeezed over the drink, the whipped cream absorbed the smoke flavor, delivering a campfire effect.

Between the penthouse views, pool table antics, and indulgent cocktails, this was one party that was difficult to leave. Fortunately, I will be back at the Mews for a Woodfords Reserve event next week!

Touring the poker room at SoHo Mews.

Carmen Carroll & Melanie Asher

Futuristic mirrored projection walls in the Heineken lounge.

Alex Ott demos how to capture smoke in a bottle.

Alex Ott pours “Pink Elephants” (Amarula, raspberry puree, chocolate liqueur, merlot, heavy cream, and a touch of smoke.)

Amarula and Marula fruit.

“Amarula & Eves” (Amarula, citrus vodka, lychee juice, and ruby red grapegruit juice.)

The cocktail crowd made use of the digitally-enhanced pool table.

Marc Thorpe-designed roof terrace at SoHo Mews.

Dizzy Recap: Chartreuse/LUPEC Tweetup & Beam Luxury Spirits Launch

Nothing like an Autumn goddess to serve you punch. Photo by Leo Borovskiy of Lush Life Productions.

November in the NYC cocktail circuit got off to a good start this week, with Monday’s Chartreuse/LUPEC NYC (Ladies United for the Protection of Endangered Cocktails) tweetup at Astor Centor and Beam Spirits Luxury tasting at the penthouse of the Hotel on Rivington. Although I was drastically late to the Chartreuse/LUPEC party and missed out on meeting Chartreuse President Jean Marc Roget, I did get to sample four delicious chartreuse cocktails–a champagne cocktail with Green Chartreuse, Yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit juice, and champagne; a Hendrick’s Gin and chartreuse cocktail with sage; a cognac cocktail with chartreuse, lemon juice, and bitters; and “The Equinox:” Yellow Chartreuse, Famous Grouse Whisky, cloves, lemon juice, and simple syrup. If you don’t know by now, Chartreuse is an herbal liqueur created by the Carthusian monks in 1605. Both the yellow and green varieties each contain 130 botanicals, and only three monks hold the secret to the recipe. Forgetting how potent Chartreuse is–the yellow is 86 proof while the green is 110 proof–I probably should have slowed my roll before jetting to the Beam event, alas, the drinks were just too good to put down.

Contemporary Cocktails and Handcrafted PR joined forces to throw a spirited bash at the Hotel on Rivington penthouse to celebrate Beam’s luxury line featuring Laphroaig Single Malt Whisky, Ri(1) Rye Whiskey, Courvoisier Exclusif Cognac, and El Tesoro Tequila. The three-story, glass-enclosed space was full of off-duty bartenderati, and drinks included the “Brooklyn Cocktail:” Ri(1) whiskey, maraschino liqueur, and Italian vermouth; “Original Sazerac:” Courvoisier Exclusif, absinthe rinse, sugar cube, and Peychaud’s bitters; and “Bobby Burns:” Laphroaig scotch, Punt e Mes Vermouth, Benedictine liqueur, dry vermouth, and Angostura bitters. There was also a gold body-painted lass serving a Laphroaig-laced punch, which was smoky and sweet. I wouldn’t necessarily add peaty Islay scotch to my holiday punch–I did not find the combination seamless–but for the acquired palate, this was a memorable treat. Thanks to all for a great night!

Chartreuse cocktails at the tweetup.

A Chartreuse & LUPEC toast.

Holiday cocktail at Beam party.

Nothing like an Autumn goddess to serve you punch. Photo by Leo Borovskiy of Lush Life Productions.

Candice Coy and Colin Asare-Appiah

Richard Boccato. Photo by Leo Borovskiy.

CLARIFICATION: Jane Lobby Bar Reopened; Ballroom 2-3 Weeks Out

My sincere apologies for having jumped the gun, but the Jane Ballroom is not open just yet–the Jane’s Lobby Bar, after a month-long closure, opened Monday, while the ballroom will reopen in two or three weeks. I guess the neighbors can rejoice in silence a little longer. Rest assured that I’ll be one of the first to know when the ballroom is back in full swing. Until then, show the Jane staff some love and get your Pimm’s Cup fix at the front bar.

Breaking News: The Jane Ballroom to reopen TONIGHT!

Back in business!

That’s right, I have the inside dish from a reliable source that The Jane Ballroom will reopen tonight! Following last month’s outcry from crotchety neighbors, a variety of city authorities temporarily shut down the ballroom over some pesky violations (outdated certificate of occupancy, sprinklers not up to code, etc.), and rumors spread that the posh, celebrity-approved hotel cocktail lounge might not reopen for weeks. Well, never underestimate the operation management skills of a Sean MacPherson-owned hotel–get dressed and back in line, kids.