Exclusive! Rye House to Open Tuesday

The "Appleseed Cobbler" at Ryehouse. Photo by Jim Kearns.

Drinking options around Union Square are about to significantly improve as all-American gastropub Rye House soft-opens this weekend before fully opening on Tuesday. Located at 11 W. 17th St., between 5th and 6th Aves., just down the street from cocktail lounge Raines Law Room, Rye House emphasizes American food and spirits.

 I attended a super-soft opening last night and sampled an Appleseed Cobbler cocktail (Maker’s Mark bourbon, Applejack, cinnamon bark syrup, apples) and Chef Greg Johnson’s phenomenal buffalo sweetbreads paired with a Nectar IPA. Prepared in the style of buffalo wings and served with blue cheese and celery, the spicy, crunchy breading complemented the tender, creamy offal perfectly and made for a playful bar plate.

Owners Mike Janetta and Rob Lombardi (Sala Bowery and Sala 19) and Julio Herencia teamed up with Lynnette Marrerro (Zacapa Rum, Eletteria, Freemans, drinksat6) and Jim Kearns (Freemans, Mayahuel, Pegu Club) to develop the cocktail program. Lynette and Jim previously worked together to create the cocktail menu at now-closed Woodson & Ford. There’s also a selection of domestic craft beers on tap and domestic wines. The long white granite bar with antique shelves is packed with a selection brown spirits, especially micro-distilled/artisanal whiskies and bourbons.

“We wanted to use small-batch American spirits,” said Lynnette. “Every drink had to have an ounce or more of an American spirit. The drinks are American twists on classics. Some, like the Creole Daiquiri, show the best of American fusion. We wanted to have a seasonal julep since it is the quintessential American whisky drink.”

Plates by Chef Greg and Ann McKinney, chef de cuisine, include drunken mussels with wheat beer and tarragon, crayfish po’ boys, beef wellington sandwiches with filet mignon and foie gras on brioche, baby chicken with buttermilk spoonbread, and stout BBQ ribs. Rye House has a front bar area with plenty of seats at the bar as well as two long, farmhouse-style communal tables, and additional communal seating and booths in the back. The decor is a mix of rustic Americana with clean, modern lines, and dim, romantic lighting. I look forward to returning again soon!

The hotly-anticipated cocktail menu here:

The Mansfield: Bluecoat gin or Tito’s vodka, Dolin blanc, yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit bitters ($12)
17^th St. Sazerac: Rittenhouse rye, Hine cognac, demerara, Peychaud & Angostura bitters, Marteau absinthe ($12)
Fleur de Lis: Aviation gin, St-Germain, lemon, orange bitters, champagne ($12)
Orange Blossom Special: Overholt Rye, lemon, simple, orange flower water, egg white, soda ($12)
Golden Delicious: Applejack 7½ year, lemon, honey syrup ($12)
Clara Bow: Bulleit Bourbon, St.-Germain, house made grenadine, lemon, mint ($12)
Rye House Punch: Chai-infused Rittenhouse Rye, Batavia Arrack, lemon, grapefruit, angostura bitters, soda ($12)
American  Highball: Buffalo Trace, Averna, soda, orange slice ($12)
Appleseed Cobbler: Maker’s Mark bourbon, Applejack, cinnamon bark syrup, apples ($12)
Rye House Julep: Peach-infused Death’s Door white whiskey, Applejack, mint ($13)
Creole Daiquiri: Old New Orleans 3 year rum, chorizo-infused Sombre Mezcal, lime, pomegranate molasses, cane syrup ($13)

Rye House, 11 W. 17th St. (212) 255-7260. The bar is open 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily, dinner is served until 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and until 12 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Lunch service will begin on Nov. 19 and brunch will start on Nov. 28.

Jim Kearns and Jane Elkins at Rye House opening night.

The antique bar at Rye House.

Additional seating in the back room.

Brown spirits rule at Rye House.

Buffalo sweetbreads, a small plate at Rye House.

Elsewhere in the Liquiverse…

Bar Pleiades at The Surrey Hotel. Photo courtesy of Oyster.com

• Have out-of-town guests arriving in NYC for the holidays? Be sure to steer them to these swanky new New York hotel bars.
• LeNell Smothers, who writes for Slashfood as “LeNellItAll,” shares her easy “Spa Mix” recipe to make any drink as cool as a cucumber.
• Harlem speakeasy 67 Orange Street is hosting a Partida cocktail tasting from 7:30 to 9pm on Tuesday, Nov. 17. 2082 Frederick Douglas Blvd., 212-662-2030
• Pernod Absinthe is holding an art contest, “Creator Of,” asking for submissions of paintings, illustrations, photography, video, and digital/animation featuring the date “1805,” the year Pernod was born. The first-place winner will receive $1,805; second and third prizes are $500 and $250, respectively. Deadline is Jan. 31.

Dizzy Recap: WhiskyFest New York

David Blackmore and Arnaud Dalibot of Glenmorangie

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much of good whiskey is barely enough.” –Mark Twain

Toasted vanilla, sweet sherry, cedar. Prunes, dark chocolate, charred fruits. Cracked pepper, moss, smoky peat. What is there not to love about the spicy, tongue-tingling world of whisk(e)y? Clearly, not a thing, as the 12th Annual WhiskyFest New York at the Marriott Marquis in Times Square was wall-to-wall packed with whisky drinkers Tuesday night. With more than 200 exhibitors pouring drams of single malts, blended whiskies, bourbon, rum, beer, and other spirits, this was one dizzy affair.

Upon entering the boisterous scene, I made a beeline for the USBGNY booth to sip on some scotch cocktails before diving into straight pours. As expected, the drinks were complex and delish–I sampled Meaghan Dorman’s “Bagpipe Dream” (Compass Box Asyla scotch, fresh lemon juice, ginger maple syrup), Jolene Skrzysowski’s “Rustic Plums” (Woodford’s Reserve bourbon, Domaine de Canton, plum wine, pear nectar), and Hal Wolin’s “2009 Scotch Odyssey” (Glenmorangie 10 Year scotch, Laphroaig scotch, mole bitters, demerara syrup). I also had a fantastic Old Fashioned by USBGNY President Jonatha Pogash, but forgot to write down the ingredients.

John Glaser, creator of Compass Box Whisky, said the recent evolution of fine scotch as an ingredient in cocktails has made for a positive addition at WhiskyFest. “You would never have seen this five years ago,” he said.

So which whiskies did I try? Let’s see, from what I can recall there was Michael Collins Irish Whiskey Single Malt, Compass Box Spice Tree, Glenmorangie Nectar D’Or, Ardberg 10 Year, The Balvenie Portwood 21 Year, Glenrothes 1991 (they were out of 1985),  Tullamore Dew 12 Year, Blanton’s Single Barrel bourbon, Highland Park 18 Year, Yamazaki 18 Year, and a most delicious Signatory Glen Grant 1976 from the Bar & Books booth. I also had Zacapa Rum, BrewDog Paradox Smokehead stout aged in Scotch casks, and more scotch cocktails mixed by kilted bartenders from St. Andrews Restaurant & Bar. There were so many more drams I wanted to try, if time and liver capacity were of no concern.

The crowd was, from my approximation, 90 percent male, 40 percent Orthodox Jewish (maybe more), and 70 percent over the age of 40, not that it matters or anyone’s counting. Thanks to Malt Advocate for organizing the event and to Kate Laufer for the invite. Slainte!

Lynnette Marrero really wants some Ardbeg 10 Year!

Jason Littrell & Lincoln Chinnery

Michael McClosky pours Michael Collins

Gardner Dunn & Ben Scorah

Whisky madness!

Amy Preske of Bufffalo Trace pours Blanton’s Single Barrel

Highland Park 18

Davinia Small pours Ardberg 10 year

John Glaser pours Compass Box Spice Tree

Hal Wolin at the USBGNY booth

David Blackmore and Arnaud Dalibot of Glenmorangie

Signatory Glen Grant 1976

Me, Robin Robinson, Carmen Carroll & Meaghan Dorman

Brew Dog brand rep & Carmen Carroll

Tell me more ’bout Tullamore Dew

Sip & Tell: Gardner Dunn of Suntory Whisky

Gardner Dunn of Suntory Whisky loves his job.

“For relaxing times, make it Suntory time.”–Bill Murray’s character, “Bob Harris,” advertising Suntory in Lost in Translation

[Sip & Tell features barstool interviews with spirits industry professionals.]

You probably recognize the above quote from the 2003 film Lost in Translation starring Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson. Around that time, Suntory was still best known for its melon liqueur, Midori, but over the past few years, its single malt whisky, Yamazaki, has infiltrated U.S. shores and quietly stolen the hearts of many a scotch drinker. Yamazaki 12 year and 18 year, both prize-winning in blind tastings, are made at Japan’s oldest distillery, founded by Scotland-educated Shinjiro Torii in 1923. Created with the level of craftsmanship the Japanese are known for, the whisky is aged in Japanese, American, and Spanish oak casks, lending a full-bodied flavor and silky smooth finish.

Over the past year, many of NYC’s best-known cocktail bars have featured drinks made with Yamazaki, such as the “Gold Rush” at Goldbar and the “Murray Sour” at Minetta Tavern. This is mainly due to the work of Gardner Dunn, North American Brand Ambassador for Suntory Whisky.

Gardner, a mixologist who is as recognized for his creative cocktails as his off-kilter hairstyle, travels around the country for several days (if not weeks) every month. He says he’s seeing a younger crowd show interest in the brand. “Scotch used to be a status symbol, something your dad drank,” he said. “Now I’m seeing younger people wanting to try new stuff. They’re interested in hearing about the distillation and the history.”

Gardner recently got an advanced course on all things Yamazaki when he traveled to the Suntory distillery on the outskirts of Kyoto, a location chosen for its water source. The Vale of Yamazaki, hailed by famous master of the tea ceremony, Senno Rikyu, is legendary for its pure water. Inspired by the art of Japanese bartening, which includes techniques such as ice ball carving and the hard shake, Gardner set out to gather Japanese bartending tools to show to the many skilled bartenders he’s met stateside. He’s put together a “Godzilla Kit,” with tools including crystal mixing glasses with a lip, bar spoons with forks on the opposite end, and Japanese jiggers, which have a thinner and deeper design and more balanced weight than standard jiggers.

The Godzilla Kits are just one bonus in what is turning out to be an exciting year for Suntory. Later this month, the hotly-anticipated Hibiki 12-year blended whisky (aged in plum liqueur casks and filtered through bamboo charcoal) hits shelves in NYC and California, its first debut stateside.  Also, just in time for the holidays, a limited edition of 300 bottles of 1984 Yamazaki will be released, for $550-$650 a pop.

Gardner says he finds himself crafting cocktails less and less and carving ice balls more and more as he focuses on educating people everywhere about the history and philosophy behind Suntory. “Cocktails are not the goal [for Yamazaki], but it does mix very well,” he said. “It doesn’t have a lot of heat, but it has honey overtones that pair well with other spirits.”

Kanpai!

Suntory's "Godzilla Kit." Photo by Leo Borovskiy of Lush Life Productions.

Gardner pours Yamazaki at a recent "Malt Madness" tasting at Union Square Wines & Spirits

Yamazaki 12, Hibiki 12, and Yamazaki 18.

Dizzy Recap: Amarula Cream at Esquire SoHo Penthouse

Touring the PokerStars.Net room at SoHo Mews.

Bachelors and cream liqueur might not seem a likely match, but earlier this week, Amarula Cream, Esquire Magazine, and mixologist Alex Ott proved otherwise. Amarula Cream, a South African liqueur made with the fruit of the Marula tree, held a cocktail bash to celebrate its sponsorship of the recently unveiled 2009 Esquire “Ultimate Bachelor Pad” at the SoHo Mews. ”Pad” is truly an understatement–this sprawling, block-sized penthouse styled by a dozen top designers is filled with impossibly cool, impossibly pricey decor. I could go on and on about the chic interior (digitally-enhanced billiards table, a $40,000 leather ”chopper chair” in the Diesel-sponsored music studio, a luxurious Hugo Boss-sponsored master bedroom with views of the Empire State Building), but I’ll leave that to the design bloggers.

To kick off the evening, Alex demonstrated how he created fresh-ingredient cocktails that would bring out Amarula’s refreshing fruit flavors. The marula fruit has a guava-like tropical essence, giving Amarula an exotic aftertaste. Alex’s most impressive drink was a revelation of masculine flavors–the “Tobacco Vanilla” involved tobacco-infused liquified honey, sandalwood syrup (sandalwood powder-infused simple syrup), Amarula, light rum, and lime juice.

Alex’s instructions for making the tobacco-infused liquified honey: dissolve two parts of Manuka honey or acacia honey in one part of hot water, stir until dissolved, and let cool. Store honey in a refrigerator. Burn organic tobacco and guide it through a punctured straw through the honey solution for about one minute.

Other cocktails served included the “Amarula & Eve” (Amarula, citrus vodka, lychee juice, and ruby red grapefruit juice), “Green Tea Wonder” (Amarula, mango nectar, gunpowder green tea, and lemon juice), and the “Pink Elephant” (Amarula, chocolate liqueur, merlot, raspberry puree, heavy cream, sugar, and a garnish of hickory smoke). Alex showed us how to make a quick whipped cream by simply shaking heavy cream and sugar in a cocktail shaker. To make the hickory smoke garnish, Alex lit a piece of wood under an inverted funnel, while his assistant siphoned the smoke into a plastic squueze bottle, thus capturing the smoke. When squeezed over the drink, the whipped cream absorbed the smoke flavor, delivering a campfire effect.

Between the penthouse views, pool table antics, and indulgent cocktails, this was one party that was difficult to leave. Fortunately, I will be back at the Mews for a Woodfords Reserve event next week!

Touring the poker room at SoHo Mews.

Carmen Carroll & Melanie Asher

Futuristic mirrored projection walls in the Heineken lounge.

Alex Ott demos how to capture smoke in a bottle.

Alex Ott pours “Pink Elephants” (Amarula, raspberry puree, chocolate liqueur, merlot, heavy cream, and a touch of smoke.)

Amarula and Marula fruit.

“Amarula & Eves” (Amarula, citrus vodka, lychee juice, and ruby red grapegruit juice.)

The cocktail crowd made use of the digitally-enhanced pool table.

Marc Thorpe-designed roof terrace at SoHo Mews.

Dizzy Recap: Chartreuse/LUPEC Tweetup & Beam Luxury Spirits Launch

Nothing like an Autumn goddess to serve you punch. Photo by Leo Borovskiy of Lush Life Productions.

November in the NYC cocktail circuit got off to a good start this week, with Monday’s Chartreuse/LUPEC NYC (Ladies United for the Protection of Endangered Cocktails) tweetup at Astor Centor and Beam Spirits Luxury tasting at the penthouse of the Hotel on Rivington. Although I was drastically late to the Chartreuse/LUPEC party and missed out on meeting Chartreuse President Jean Marc Roget, I did get to sample four delicious chartreuse cocktails–a champagne cocktail with Green Chartreuse, Yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit juice, and champagne; a Hendrick’s Gin and chartreuse cocktail with sage; a cognac cocktail with chartreuse, lemon juice, and bitters; and “The Equinox:” Yellow Chartreuse, Famous Grouse Whisky, cloves, lemon juice, and simple syrup. If you don’t know by now, Chartreuse is an herbal liqueur created by the Carthusian monks in 1605. Both the yellow and green varieties each contain 130 botanicals, and only three monks hold the secret to the recipe. Forgetting how potent Chartreuse is–the yellow is 86 proof while the green is 110 proof–I probably should have slowed my roll before jetting to the Beam event, alas, the drinks were just too good to put down.

Contemporary Cocktails and Handcrafted PR joined forces to throw a spirited bash at the Hotel on Rivington penthouse to celebrate Beam’s luxury line featuring Laphroaig Single Malt Whisky, Ri(1) Rye Whiskey, Courvoisier Exclusif Cognac, and El Tesoro Tequila. The three-story, glass-enclosed space was full of off-duty bartenderati, and drinks included the “Brooklyn Cocktail:” Ri(1) whiskey, maraschino liqueur, and Italian vermouth; “Original Sazerac:” Courvoisier Exclusif, absinthe rinse, sugar cube, and Peychaud’s bitters; and “Bobby Burns:” Laphroaig scotch, Punt e Mes Vermouth, Benedictine liqueur, dry vermouth, and Angostura bitters. There was also a gold body-painted lass serving a Laphroaig-laced punch, which was smoky and sweet. I wouldn’t necessarily add peaty Islay scotch to my holiday punch–I did not find the combination seamless–but for the acquired palate, this was a memorable treat. Thanks to all for a great night!

Chartreuse cocktails at the tweetup.

A Chartreuse & LUPEC toast.

Holiday cocktail at Beam party.

Nothing like an Autumn goddess to serve you punch. Photo by Leo Borovskiy of Lush Life Productions.

Candice Coy and Colin Asare-Appiah

Richard Boccato. Photo by Leo Borovskiy.

CLARIFICATION: Jane Lobby Bar Reopened; Ballroom 2-3 Weeks Out

My sincere apologies for having jumped the gun, but the Jane Ballroom is not open just yet–the Jane’s Lobby Bar, after a month-long closure, opened Monday, while the ballroom will reopen in two or three weeks. I guess the neighbors can rejoice in silence a little longer. Rest assured that I’ll be one of the first to know when the ballroom is back in full swing. Until then, show the Jane staff some love and get your Pimm’s Cup fix at the front bar.

Breaking News: The Jane Ballroom to reopen TONIGHT!

Back in business!

That’s right, I have the inside dish from a reliable source that The Jane Ballroom will reopen tonight! Following last month’s outcry from crotchety neighbors, a variety of city authorities temporarily shut down the ballroom over some pesky violations (outdated certificate of occupancy, sprinklers not up to code, etc.), and rumors spread that the posh, celebrity-approved hotel cocktail lounge might not reopen for weeks. Well, never underestimate the operation management skills of a Sean MacPherson-owned hotel–get dressed and back in line, kids.

Saloon Stakeouts: Bar Celona and Summit Bar

Bar Celona sure is pretty. Photo by Bartomeu Amengual.

Recession schmecession, it’s fall in New York and that means bar openings, people! Not since June, which saw the openings of Fort Defiance and Ward III, has there been so many new cocktail menus and plush seating to try out. While I have plans to hit up Highlands, Henry Public, and the bars at Crosby Street Hotel and Ace Hotel (plus a brand-spanking new bar you probably haven’t heard about yet), there are two joints where I recently caught a whiff of new bar smell, Bar Celona in Williamsburg and Summit Bar in Alphabet City. Both are lookers, both have savory-centric cocktails, and both are keepers, in my opinion.

Bar Celona, on South 4th Street between Bedford Avenue and Berry Street, is a swanky, noiresque enclave in a neighborhood full of grungy pubs and cafes. A Spanish tapas and cocktail lounge, the space is the vision of Cynthia Diaz, a fashionista who grew up in the restaurant industry. The Hollywood Regency-style decor, which Diaz designed with her mother, is simply stunning–gold lion wall decals, leopard-print salon seating, glass-enclosed fireplace–but what’s really impressive is the cocktail menu created by the Tippling Bros.

Tad Carducci and Paul Tanguay have put together a slew of sweet and savory drinks using Spanish ingredients–expect the menu to expand soon, according to bartender Frank Cisneros. The cocktail menu is divided into three categories: “G y Ts” (variations on gin and tonics, Spain’s most popular drink), “Gastros” (featuring savory culinary flavors), and “Variedades” (variety of ingredients).

I started off with the “Paellarinha” ($11), a “gastro” drink that included Leblon cachaca, fino sherry, red bell pepper/saffron syrup, and lemon juice. I’m usually not a fan of bell peppers, but this drink was incredibly refreshing and the paella-inspired flavors made it a justifiable appetizer. Next, Frank offered me a special off-menu cocktail, a “Burnt Caipirinha.” He torched some demerara sugar with an alcohol-filled atomizer before muddling in limes and adding Leblon. The drink had a nice toasted caramel flavor and the fire show was definitely a conversation piece. Lastly, while I nibbled on dates stuffed with Mahon cheese and wrapped in Serrano ham, I sipped down a “Sea Monkey.” One of the gin and tonics, this cocktail called for Plymouth Gin, celery/apple juice, lemon juice, Anise del Mono, Fever Tree tonic water, and a fennel salt rim. Since I am a fan of all things celery, I quickly made it disappear. It was hard to choose from this menu–all of the drinks sound amazing. Next time, I think I’ll try the “Missionary’s Position” (for a change, wink, wink), with reposado tequila, Rioja pear syrup, falernum, and ginger. Take note that Bar Celona is closed on Mondays.

Summit Bar, on Avenue C between 8th and 9th Streets, also features plush seating and chandeliers, but the brick wall interior and laid-back East Village vibe offers a balance that has attracted a sizable following (and even a mention in The New York Times). Co-owned by Greg Seider, who created the cocktail menu at Minetta Tavern, Summit features a mix of “Classic” cocktails (Tom Collins, French 75, Vesper, Dark and Stormy, Daiquiri) and “Alchemist” drinks which exhibit Seider’s culinary-inspired mixology skills. I had a “Shu Jam Fizz” ($12), a combination of DH Krahn Gin, apricot jam, fennel-infused syrup, peach bitters, lemon juice, and club soda. The apricot jam married perfectly with the gin and anise flavors of the fennel and was not cloyingly sweet.

I wish I could have stayed for more drinks at Summit Bar, like “The Gov’ner”–Yamazaki 12 year whisky, toasted cardamom-infused agave syrup, Japanese yuzu, and fresh orange juice. I did, however, get to scope the cabana-style back patio, which will be a neighborhood destination once the mercury reverses. Summit also offers a small menu of charcuterie, with more options coming soon.

Paellarinha at Bar Celona

Hollywood style comes to Billyburg

Bar Celona sure is pretty. Photo by Bartomeu Amengual.

Frank Cisneros torches demerara sugar at Bar Celona

Gold lions and swanky seating at Bar Celona

Burnt Caipirinha at Bar Celona

Sea Monkey at Bar Celona

A crowded scene at Summit Bar

Summit Bar co-owner Greg Seider

Shu Jam Fizz at Summit Bar

Elsewhere in the Liquiverse…

• Lush Life Productions, in partnership with APPSolute Media, Don Q Rum, and Tito’s Handmade Vodka, recently launched a free iPhone app, “Happy Houred.” Just a few swipes of the fingers and you’ll know which bars are having cheap drinking hours near you, in whichever U.S. city you may be. You can even add your own reviews of the bars and drinks.
• Have you seen that article on VillageVoice.com about where New York mixologists drink during their off hours? (Yes, I wrote it. I know, shameless.)
• Or how about that round-up of last-minute Halloween and Day of the Dead events in NYC? (Again, I am shameless.)
• Nation’s Restaurant News looks at the popularity of the atomizer as a mixology tool.
• Bols is putting on an awesome-sounding contest, “Bols Around the World Shaking Twenties Competition.” Working bartenders are invited to submit cocktail recipes inspired by the Roaring 20s. David Wondrich will choose one North American finalist to go to Amsterdam and compete with five other talented bartenders representing Europe, Asia, Africa, Australia and South America. The grand prize winner will win the opportunity to design and create his or her own signature Bols liqueur in Amsterdam with a Bols product developer. Deadline is Nov. 30.